FLORENCE

Arriverdici Firenze

We boarded the bullet train at Rome (January 15)  to Florence (Firenze) and were escorted to the station by Mariesa, our den mother. Accompanying us were the NZ father/daughter Abels whom we got to know since we were together throughout the Italian tour. She was a freshly minted college grad from Auckland (.. paartner, Maarch..)  and he was a retired sailor but who had some medical setbacks.. triple bypass surgery, diabetes. Fun people.

Waiting at the train station was Helma the transplanted Dutch now living in Florence with a neatly printed sign announcing she was with Liberty Travels. After a quick breakfast we were off to downtown Florence taking the city bus like we were pros. What a beautiful city! Can you spell M-E-D-I-C-I? Well they ruled in the 15th century with their "enforcer" Kosimo the Duke. He was simply put, an ass kicker but a renaissance kind of guy. He promoted the arts, kissed the Medici's butt and got his likeness in a number of paintings.

As you drive into the main part of two you come to Ponte Vecchio a beautiful bridge that has had its share of floods and events during WW2. Apparently Hilter was so in love Florence art that he scampered off with the best pieces when he knew the game was up. Spanning the Arno River, the Ponte Vecchio is one of Florence’s oldest and most photographed bridges. Noted for its three segmented arches, the bridge was first built by the Etruscans and later rebuilt in the 14th century. The bridge’s most striking feature is the line of high-end jewelry shops flanking along each of its edges. Many visitors come here to shop and take photographs. Night time presents stunning views when the lighting from the bridge is reflected upon the water. Off to the right of the picture is the famous Uffizi Gallery which among other paintings and sculptures has the famous David replica on the outside. Apparently, the "real" David was always placed outside the Uffize but for various reasons was moved inside. Back to Hitler: never understood why the Italians believed Hitler pillaged Florence because heck they were  on the same side. Perhaps this was just a way to show that Italians were always good at heart. Florence has been besieged by damaging floods dating back to the 15th century. The most recent one in 1966 caused widespread destruction, destroyed several masterpieces and also reuired vast restoration efforts. A mark at one of the Piazzos shows the level of the flood water ins 1966: at least 15 feet above the ground.

Kosimo the Duke was a big patron of the arts but in a very mendacious way. He always was looking for himself even as he ingratiated to the Medici's who were powerful and could eliminate their enemies. But Kosimo was able to marshal a lot of power and alos made sure that one Michael Angelo was well taken care of. MA had extraordinary powers, combined with his "arrogance" that he was the best. When confronted with the raw material marble provided him to carve David, he scoffed at the challenge and proceeded to sculpt his masterpiece. To master the human body, MA was known to examine cadavers at the local mortuary to assure proportions and musculature were accurately represented. As you go around David, you notice the attention to detail, the details of the facial expression, the weapons he is about to load to slay Goliath and frankly the apprehensiveness of his mission.As you walk around the statue inside the Pallacio he cant help but notice how painstaking the effort must have been. Various times in history, people have tried to vandalize the statue: one such endeavor resulted in a portion of his toe being disfigured. We saw the same damage inflicted on the Piata in Rome when an unbalanced on-looker also had a go at the statue. Now very elaborate screens and electronic alarms prevent such excesses

Santa Maria del Flore

Dominating the panoramic view of Florence is the Santa Maria del Fiore, the domed cathedral that is often called the Duomo. Known today as the world’s largest masonry dome, this majestic cathedral features 600 years worth of stunning architecture and art works. From its beautiful Gothic facade of red, green and white marble to its elaborate interior of stained-glass windows, mosaics, frescoes and bronze statues, the Duomo complex also includes the impressive structures of the Baptistery and Giotto’s bell tower. A climb to the top rewardx tourists with panoramic views of Florence and outlying valley.
The Uffizi Gallery

Regarded today as one of the world’s greatest art museums, the Uffizi
Gallery is located off the Piazza della Signoria. This former palace was first built in 1560 to house the offices of the city magistrates. After the ruling dynasty of the Medici family relinquished its power, the palace evolved into an art gallery to showcase its stunning collection of Renaissance art treasures. Opened to the public since 1765, the museum offers thousands of art works by masters like Michelangelo, Botticelli, Leonardo da Vinci and Titian.

No doubt Kosimo the Duke was the power broker on what could be exhibited and where at the Uffizi (literally means the "office"). Outside the gallery is the aforesaid likeness of the David as well as fascinating fountain where he dominates riding a horse. In the middle of the fountain is Neptune the God of the Sea and a little bit of examination of his face reveals he looks a lot like Kosimo! Well that was Kosimo's callin card. He made his likeness both unobtrusive but sometimes pretty bluntly obtrusive! The statues are located in the Piazza della Signoria which consists of an open-air exhibit of other famous sculptures: the Rape of the Sabine Woman, Perseus with the head of Medusa are gloriously displayed open air in this Piazza,

One of Florence’s most significant buildings is the Palazzo Vecchio, a grand palace overlooking the Piazza della Signoria. Built in the 12th century, the Palazzo Vecchio housed the powerful Medici family as well as Florence’s supreme governing body for six centuries. Since 1872, it has served in part as a museum and as the city town hall. This impressive palace packs a wealth of artifacts and art works that include beautiful frescoes, sculptures, painted ceilings, intricate carvings and tapestries that all depict historic and Biblical events.
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Situated at the center of the city’s main market district, the Basilica di San Lorenzo is one of the oldest churches of Florence and was the burial place of all the principal members of the Medici family. The church, originally designed by Filippo Brunelleschi in the 15th century, is an early example of ecclesiastical Renaissance architecture. The façade of this church was never completed, giving it a striking, rustic appearance. Inside the church is pure Renaissance neo-classical splendor.Near the Nuevo Mart there are many street vendors selling scarves, caps, and thingmajigs. These are run by Bangladeshi vendors and we saw them in Rome as well. Another indoor eatery had the best pizzas and cheese. That shop was managed by a Korean, Brazilian and a Chinese woman. Globalization is everywhere!

VENICE

Arriverdici Venezia

We took the "slow" bullet train from Firenze to Venezia on January 18 on the last leg of our Italian sojourn. Venice is one of the larger northern cities in Italy. The last 10 miles of the train journey described what was to come. There is no vehicular traffic of any kind in Venice. And it is sinking. The last 10 miles of the train journey seemed like it was running over water and then it came to a stop on dry land at the Venezia train station. Our tour guide from Monograms was waiting for us ,,, with a handwritten sign. Name was Igor but assured us that he was Italian and not Rumanian. Quite a departure from the very professional treatment we first got a Rome airport and the hotel and in Firenze. As he picked us up and dispatched our luggage via water taxi to our hotel Principi, we got a taste of what to expect. There is water everywhere and boats everywhere. Morning commuters come in on large ferries, only the faces of the morning commuters appeared larger. Cops, ambulances, taxis, freight .. everything is hauled over water. The water has seeped into so many structures that the city is undergoing some emergency repairs. The previous mayor apparently siphoned the $1B Euros set aside and thus there was no mayor. Igor cautioned that early morning several streets especially around St Marks Square will be covered with water sometimes requiring pontoon like bridges to negotiate between buildings. But as was the Monograms protocol, they let the toursits relax on day of departure, offer a high dose ecorted tour the second day in the morning laying the ground work for tourists to take care of themselves Day 3 & Day 4. s elegant, precious, inimitable, entertaining, and romantic. It is a jewel in the Italian touristic landscape, where churches, buildings, old bridges, monuments and piazzas are the evidence of the artistic and cultural vivacity that marks the history of this city.

The heart of Venice is the wonderful Piazza San Marco - the most elegant in Europe - surrounded by outstanding buildings: the impressive bell tower and the Cathedral - with its five portals of marble and mosaic decorations (foreshadowing the luxury of the interiors); the Ducal Palace, a symbol of the golden age of the Serenissima; Torre dei Mori (the clock tower), the engineering masterpiece that has been telling Venice the time for centuries; and the Napoleonic Wing, site of the Correr Museum.
Not far away is Campo Santo Stefano, with the church of the same name (i.e. St. Stephen's), one of Venice's biggest. Standing in Piazza are two towers where decapitation took place. Yes, decap! Seemed like a routine punishment those days (yes, one of the first Doge's was decapitated and his face missing in the legion of Doges). Made me wonder why the West regards decapitation by the present enemies of the West so leerily! It was SOP here those days. The Doges had an admirable system: it was said that Thomas Jefferson wanted to emulate the system for the newly independent colonies back in 1770s. But the Merchants of Venice were secretive, their votes were duly enacted by the Doges. There was a balance but I am sure TJ was less enamored by the people being less involved.

Seeing all the water seep through in St Mark's squre just made me realize the immediacy of Venezia's problems: it is less and less relevant these days but if not for its glamour and glitz-- Elton John lives there, George Clooney had his wedding there in 2014, so many fashion houses are located on the ritzy walk--it would already be a footnote.

Also from the piazza, the visitor can see the Island of San Giorgio Maggiore and the high bell tower that rises from the monumental structure of the old Benedictine monastery, a masterpiece realized by important architects of the time, including the renowned Andrea Palladio.
Venice is the best of outdoor museums, and it can be toured by boat or by gondola, most teasily along the Canal Grande, the main Venetian thoroughfare. The Canal begins at Punta della Dogana, the old harbor of the Most Serene Republic, with its peculiar triangular shape that is now, like Palazzo Grassi, a Contemporary Arts Center.
The Peggy Guggenheim Collection is another must-see, exhibited in the Palazzo Venier de’ Leoni; it is considered the most important collection of the 20th Century. Among other important museums are the Gallerie dell’Accademia, housed in the majestic structure of the Scuola Grande de la Carità (inside is a church of the same name and a monastery); and Ca’ Rezzonico, one of the most beautiful buildings from the Renaissance and home to the Museum of 18th-Century Venice.

On the right bank of the Grand Canal - also accessible by crossing the Ponte del Rialto - it is possible to reach the districts of San Polo, Santa Croce and Dorsoduro, where some of the most famous campi of Venice are surrounded by wonderful religious buildings and palaces: San Rocco, with one of the old Grandi Scuole di Venezia and the church dedicated to the Saint; the renowned Basilica of Santa Maria Gloriosa dei Frari, one of the most important Franciscan structures; San Polo; San Giacomo dall’Orio with the church of the same name at its center and decorated with wonderful Venetian Renaissance artworks; San Sebastiano masterfully decorated by Paolo Veronese; San Pantalon; San Nicolò dei Mendicoli with one of the city's oldest churches; and Santa Maria della Salute.

From Piazza San Marco, crossing the renowned Bridge of Sighs - with a wonderful view of the lagoon - is the Castello district, rich in architectural and artistic masterpieces. The campi of Venice are historic piazzas, usually embellished with remarkable monuments in the middle, and dominated by impressive religious buildings whence they take their names. This sestiere (district) also hosts plenty of interesting churches: the Chiesa dei Santi Giovanni e Paolo (Church of St. John and St. Paul), where state funerals were once held; the Church Santa Maria dei Miracoli, a fabulous example of Renaissance architecture; the Church of San Zaccaria in the homonyous piazza; the Church of San Giovanni in Bragora - considered one of the most beautiful churches in Venice - and the Church of Santa Maria Formosa, based on a design by Codussi.

Two further places that are well-worth a visit along the same route include the biggest Arsenal in the world, built in the 12th Century and later expanded, thanks to Venice's significant political and economic development; and the Scuola San Giorgio degli Schiavoni, home to some of the most beautiful paintings by Carpaccio. In Cannareggio, Campo della Madonna dell’Orto is one of the last surviving examples of ancient herringbone paving, and its Church of the same name was decorated by the famous Tintoretto. The Scuola dei Mercanti can also be found here. The Church of San Giovanni Crisostomo, Codussi’s last opus, is another magnificent example of Renaissance architecture. Finally, in the old Ca’ d’Oro building lies a precious art collection of pieces from the Venetian School.

Venice is surrounded by a group of islands: Burano, renowned for its lace production; Murano, for its glassmaking; Pellestrina, characterized by sandy dunes and cane thickets; and Torcello, one of the oldest human settlements in the area.
On the northern side of the Lagoon are wonderful natural landscapes, with beaches that change color depending on the sunlight, just like the Dolomites that have nourished, over the centuries, this beautiful coastline.
Venice Province's other gems: Caorle, with its narrows alleys passing between pretty, colored houses; Jesolo, core of amusement and nightlife; Bibione, with its pinewoods that run right down to the beach; and Cavallino, the main European “open-air” tourist destination.
And along the banks of the Brenta, many sumptuous aristocratic Venetian villas were built between 1500 and 1700; period symbols of Venetian wealth and prosperity, they are the designs of some of the best architects and painters of the day.

It is possible to find the same splendor in the environs of Mirano, in the Terre del Tiepolo (Lands of Tiepolo), named in honor of one of the most famous artistic families. Without a doubt, this area witnessed a period of great cultural development during the Most Serene Republic's domination, the signs of which it is still possible to admire, intact, and in all their magnificence.

As we walked through the Doge's palace, the museum, and the artworks, I was reminded that this was a civilization in a tailspin. You only needed to see the migrants from Bangladesh, from Syria a stones throw away hawking their merchandise that the economy is in tatters and there is a new currency for merchandise. But I couldnt help admire how long the Roman empire stood in all its glory through more than 2000 years. It was a good innings as the Brits would say.

The tour guides we had were excellent. There was the official greeter: Mariesa, Helma and Igor, respectively in Rome, Florence and Venice. Then the actual experts : Francesco in Rome in particular, were art history majors with deep knowledge on history.